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  #951  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:26 AM
charlesjordanjr charlesjordanjr is offline
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My tek 6 lamp fixture is 15" wide.
-Chuck
  #952  
Old 12/29/2005, 01:35 AM
Fliger Fliger is offline
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Just in case anyone is in my situation ....

I have a 5x2x2 tank with 2x250W 10K bulbs (Geisemann 14.5) and 2x54W Geisemann Actinic+ driven by one WH5 ballast for each bulb. I am only running my MH 4 hrs a day, and my 2x T5 bulbs 12 hours. That doesn't seem like a lot of light, but my SPS are very blue and growing very well. If I were going to keep this set-up (which I'm not, I have a new tank coming soon) I would just add 2 more T5's and keep my MH on 4 hours.

FWIW, HTH!

ps - holy schmoly forensic doc - that is FANTASTIC!
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  #953  
Old 12/29/2005, 02:28 AM
muji muji is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by charlesjordanjr
My tek 6 lamp fixture is 15" wide.
-Chuck
I think I already understand that the entire fixture is 15'' wide because it's mentioned in a lot of online stores, so thanks charlesjordan for looking. What I meant was the width from the edge of the first bulb/individual reflector to the last (from front to rear). ... if anyone can give me a measurement of that.

Again... i don't want to know the width of the entire fixture.. just the total width of the bulbs end to end.... bulb #1 - #6.

Thanks
  #954  
Old 12/29/2005, 08:10 AM
dtaranath dtaranath is offline
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Hey Grim,

what's the difference between Aquablue, Oceanblue, Blueplus, and actinic?
  #955  
Old 12/29/2005, 09:16 AM
Universal Universal is offline
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Howdy Mr Grim "T5" Reefer,

Its time for me to upgrade my lights and after reading most of this thread I will be doing it soon but firsty some advice is needed

I have a 48x18x18 tank with a few soft corals and 4 fish. I hope to keep most things under the sea in my tank

Which T5 light set up would you suggest and what bulbs to use? I cannot hang the lights above the tank because it isnt my house (brother doesnt want holes in his ceiling) Also reconmend a good online store (good customer service )

I have lids on the tank now , do I remove them when I get the new lights?

Thanks a million , great topic

James
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  #956  
Old 12/29/2005, 09:45 AM
oldimpala oldimpala is offline
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Muji-

The size of the reflector/bulb area on the 6-lamp unit is a touch under 12"....


-Andy/Oldimpala
  #957  
Old 12/29/2005, 10:37 AM
muji muji is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by oldimpala
Muji-

The size of the reflector/bulb area on the 6-lamp unit is a touch under 12"....


-Andy/Oldimpala

Wow that's really good news to hear! Thanks oldimpala =)
  #958  
Old 12/29/2005, 11:16 AM
bourbeaue bourbeaue is offline
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Grim,

you mention in a couple of places throughout this thread that you once ran a glass (or acrylic ?) top over your tank on top of which you ran your T5's. Do you recommend this ? How much PAR is lost going through a glass or acrylic lid ? Did you do this to prevent salt spray from getting to your T5's or just to reduce the intensity for more light sensitive creatures ?
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  #959  
Old 12/29/2005, 11:55 AM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by dtaranath
Hey Grim,

what's the difference between Aquablue, Oceanblue, Blueplus, and actinic?
Aquablue is a 60/40 actinic/daylight phospher mix that creates a very crisp white light with a wisp of blue and lotsa PAR. Blueplus/Actinic Plus is a blue lamp that fluoresces the corals pretty well. The lamp is a 450nm color rather than the 420 of the actinic. The actinic is a little more of a violet(purple) color that fluoresces green colors pretty well but that is about it. Ocean blue I haven't ran yet but I assume it will be much like the Blueplus.
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  #960  
Old 12/29/2005, 11:59 AM
Fliger Fliger is offline
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Awe shooot, I meant to say that my T5's are 80W not 54W! Each one is driven very well by a WH5.
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  #961  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:01 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Aquactinics from the sponsor's page has an interesting looking T5 setup. It uses 5 lamps which might be right up your alley for what you want to do. A 4 lamp Tek light might not be quite enough for an 18" deep and the 6 lamp might be more light than you need if you aren't doing SPS and clams. Any of those would work for you though. I believe the Aquactinics light has a glass shield so you could remove the tank tops with it. You can get an acrylic shield for the Tek as well. The tank tops will cut down the light by around 20%.

www.aquactinics.com or for the Tek www.reefgeek.com.

Quote:
Originally posted by Universal
Howdy Mr Grim "T5" Reefer,

Its time for me to upgrade my lights and after reading most of this thread I will be doing it soon but firsty some advice is needed

I have a 48x18x18 tank with a few soft corals and 4 fish. I hope to keep most things under the sea in my tank

Which T5 light set up would you suggest and what bulbs to use? I cannot hang the lights above the tank because it isnt my house (brother doesnt want holes in his ceiling) Also reconmend a good online store (good customer service )

I have lids on the tank now , do I remove them when I get the new lights?

Thanks a million , great topic

James
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  #962  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:07 PM
ctreefer ctreefer is offline
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Grim Reefer,

Just to get back on my results with the 3 24 inch t5 bulbs on a 430 ballast, I finally got it put together last night and all the bulbs fired up perfectly. Hurt my eyes. Now off to making sure they stay nice and cool.

Thanks for all the help.

ctreefer

Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
Thats interesting.... I always got the impression it would hurt the ballast based on the responses I saw in a couple of threads. If it will fire brand new lamps you should be good. As the lamps age the internal resistance is supposed to decrease. Don't know if that translates to lower startup voltage or not.
  #963  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:09 PM
Justin74 Justin74 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer

Brentp hit the nail right on the head as far as the fullhams go. They don't start the lamps using the correct method so the lamps electrodes break down sooner than with program start ballasts. How much that cuts down on the life of the bulbs for our purposes is an open question.

The Fulham CAN overdrive T5's but you have to wire them to do so.
Quote:
It tests, T5 lamps on a solid state ballast have in about 50% of the lamps tested shorten the overall T5 lamp's life by around 20% ( or somewhere around that )
With what aquatinics is saying, theres a 50% chance that your bulb's life will be reduced by 20% with these ballasts.Which would make it over 4+ years instead of the normal projected 5+ years. Which in actuallity, a reefer would only use the bulb for 1/4-1/5 its potential life anyway..

But how do you wire it to overdrive? Just run all leads to existing lamps?

-Justin
  #964  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:18 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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You double up on the red leads at the one end of a lamp. I did it with an 80 watt lamp and the thing melted into the plastic brace on the top of the tank. I accidentally ran 2 red leads to the one end of the lamp, oops!
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  #965  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:22 PM
Justin74 Justin74 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
You double up on the red leads at the one end of a lamp. I did it with an 80 watt lamp and the thing melted into the plastic brace on the top of the tank. I accidentally ran 2 red leads to the one end of the lamp, oops!
LOL!Is it just me or you accidentally did what your telling me to do? You say double up on one end of the lamp yet you melted yours by doubling up at one end of the lamp?>

-Justin
  #966  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:24 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Fliger
Awe shooot, I meant to say that my T5's are 80W not 54W! Each one is driven very well by a WH5.
How did you wire that up? Fulham lists 2 red leads per lamp just to run 54's on that ballast.
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  #967  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:26 PM
Justin74 Justin74 is offline
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128 watt ballast shouldnt be firing (2)80 watters. Sure you dont have WH 7?OH,nm, for each bulb....I see.

-Justin
  #968  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:27 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Justin74
LOL!Is it just me or you accidentally did what your telling me to do? You say double up on one end of the lamp yet you melted yours by doubling up at one end of the lamp?>

-Justin
The lamp was just sitting on top of the plastic brace, touching it. Normally driven lamps wouldn't have gotten hot enough to melt the plastic, overdriven they would. That is how I figured out how to do it.
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  #969  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:31 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by bourbeaue
Grim,

you mention in a couple of places throughout this thread that you once ran a glass (or acrylic ?) top over your tank on top of which you ran your T5's. Do you recommend this ? How much PAR is lost going through a glass or acrylic lid ? Did you do this to prevent salt spray from getting to your T5's or just to reduce the intensity for more light sensitive creatures ?
Lids cut around 20% of the light. Really depends on your system and what you are raising if you should run lids or not. I personally wouldn't unless you have the lights very close to the water, like less than 3" up.
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  #970  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:32 PM
Justin74 Justin74 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
The lamp was just sitting on top of the plastic brace, touching it. Normally driven lamps wouldn't have gotten hot enough to melt the plastic, overdriven they would. That is how I figured out how to do it.
I gotya Wasnt sure if you were describing a part of the bulb or something, I understand what your saying now,thanks

-Justin
  #971  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:33 PM
The Grim Reefer The Grim Reefer is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Justin74
128 watt ballast shouldnt be firing (2)80 watters. Sure you dont have WH 7?OH,nm, for each bulb....I see.

-Justin
It is a wh7, a WH5 isn't even listed as used with a 80 watt lamp but fliger is running them.
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Last year the SEC was the strongest conference but overrated. This year they were just overrated.
  #972  
Old 12/29/2005, 12:34 PM
Justin74 Justin74 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by The Grim Reefer
The lamp was just sitting on top of the plastic brace, touching it. Normally driven lamps wouldn't have gotten hot enough to melt the plastic, overdriven they would. That is how I figured out how to do it.
Idle hands are the devil's workshop indeed!

-Justin
  #973  
Old 12/29/2005, 02:15 PM
Aquactinics Aquactinics is offline
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A WH5 can run one (1) 80W T5. You double up two of the four red leads.

Tom
Aquactinics
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  #974  
Old 12/29/2005, 05:49 PM
backlash backlash is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Aquactinics
A WH5 can run one (1) 80W T5. You double up two of the four red leads.

Tom
Aquactinics
yeah,thats how mine are-1wh5 per 80w bulb.
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  #975  
Old 12/29/2005, 10:31 PM
horkn horkn is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by brentp
The two myths about Workhorse ballasts:

1) They will burn up your bulbs quickly.
2) They do not shorten the lifes of T5 bulbs over ballasts that were designed for them.

I guess you have debunked myth 1 and perpetrated myth 2.

Lots of people are using Workhorse ballasts with T5's and they are an inexpensive option that makes sense for some people. How much do they shorten the life of the bulb? I don't really know, but from what I've read, probably a few months. Is that a big deal, probably not. But if I was spending hundreds of dollars on lighting I would want to know the truth in addition to peoples not quite impartial experiences.

If I had Workhorse ballasts from another lighting system I would go ahead and use them. If I needed to purchase the ballast, I would either buy the appropriate Triad (I purchased mine for less than a Workhorse on ebay), or go with the IceCap if I wanted to overdrive the bulbs.

I did both. I use 6, 80 watt bulbs overdriven by IC 660's and one 80 watt bulb used for dusk/dawn on a triad.
for me there wasnt one triad that would cut the wattage i needed, so i used 1 w5.


and according to fulham, they are designed for t5ho. so i figured i would try it out.

and it works, quite well i might add.
i will probably just replace one of my ati blues, with a blue+, and run the old ge 6500k and the other ati blue until they die, jsut to see when that is. well, unless i like the blue+ that much more than the blue.


i only spent 170 dollars on my entire t5ho setup, and if i didnt have this stinking bryopsis problem, i would post a pic..

well, i can say the bryposis likes the light
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