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  #1  
Old 01/06/2008, 02:59 PM
Mappelbaum37 Mappelbaum37 is offline
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How long are your tank lights on???

the title says it all- I have a red slime algae problem and I spoke to someone at my LFS and all of the sudden it just hit me. I used red slime remover on my tank yesterday and the guy told me that it really is the worst thing for the tank because it takes away good bacteria and nutrients and the slime is going to just keep on coming back. He told me to cut back on light and feeding and during water changes siphon out as much slime as I can. Many people on reefcentral had told me to be careful about chemicals but I didnt listen- My corals and fish are fine but I guess I just had to literally hear it from someone. =)

So anyways, how long are your tank lights on (if you have corals and fish, because I have a mixed reef)
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  #2  
Old 01/06/2008, 03:01 PM
kc9dre kc9dre is offline
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10 hours for the 10,000K, and 12 for the act.
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  #3  
Old 01/06/2008, 03:10 PM
Mappelbaum37 Mappelbaum37 is offline
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I have 8 hours, 10 with actinics.
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  #4  
Old 01/06/2008, 03:38 PM
Finding Emo Finding Emo is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mappelbaum37
I have 8 hours, 10 with actinics.
+1
  #5  
Old 01/06/2008, 03:40 PM
vanmo92 vanmo92 is offline
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8:30AM-9:30PM
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  #6  
Old 01/06/2008, 04:01 PM
2farNorth 2farNorth is offline
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I run my MH for 10 hours,
VHO Actinics for 12.
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  #7  
Old 01/06/2008, 04:16 PM
norwall norwall is offline
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One HQI pendant on for 8 hours, the other on for 8 hours, at 4 hours apart for a total photoperiod of 12 hours. There is more to red slime algae than lighting though. Red slime is actually a bacteria and feeds on nutrients, mainly nitrates. I have had issues with this as well and one thing I do know is it can be tough to get rid of!
  #8  
Old 01/06/2008, 04:28 PM
m2434 m2434 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by norwall
One HQI pendant on for 8 hours, the other on for 8 hours, at 4 hours apart for a total photoperiod of 12 hours. There is more to red slime algae than lighting though. Red slime is actually a bacteria and feeds on nutrients, mainly nitrates. I have had issues with this as well and one thing I do know is it can be tough to get rid of!
IMO, lights are not the issue, nutrients are. Lights can help "clean up"the cyano after the nutrient issue has been solved.
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  #9  
Old 01/06/2008, 05:32 PM
Mappelbaum37 Mappelbaum37 is offline
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so I have too many or too little nutrients?
and if my nitrates are high how do I lower them? Water changes
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  #10  
Old 01/06/2008, 08:03 PM
Pmolan Pmolan is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mappelbaum37
so I have too many or too little nutrients?
and if my nitrates are high how do I lower them? Water changes
Water changes and a refugium.
  #11  
Old 01/06/2008, 08:13 PM
DoctorLps DoctorLps is offline
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I run my atinics 12hrs
10,000k I run 10hrs
  #12  
Old 01/06/2008, 08:31 PM
reefkeeper135 reefkeeper135 is offline
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are you using RO/DI water?
  #13  
Old 01/06/2008, 09:36 PM
Mappelbaum37 Mappelbaum37 is offline
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yes I dont use tap water--
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  #14  
Old 01/06/2008, 09:43 PM
billaweed billaweed is offline
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both daylight and actinic for 10 hrs

I leave my moon lights on 24/7 but that doesnt effect anything i dont thinkg
  #15  
Old 01/06/2008, 09:43 PM
DOTZ DOTZ is offline
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8 hour metal halide.
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  #16  
Old 01/06/2008, 10:24 PM
ahullsb ahullsb is offline
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I run actinics for 12, mh's for 9.
  #17  
Old 01/06/2008, 10:38 PM
ShootMe ShootMe is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Mappelbaum37
I have 8 hours, 10 with actinics.
+1
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  #18  
Old 01/06/2008, 10:46 PM
jubjubrsx jubjubrsx is offline
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i was planning on 6hrs for my MH's and 1hr before and after for my antics
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  #19  
Old 01/06/2008, 11:30 PM
ACBlinky ACBlinky is offline
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I run my actinics 11am - 11pm, MH 1pm - 8pm.

IMHO cyano and light aren't that closely related. Cyano can fix atmospheric nitrogen, meaning it doesn't need NO3 in the water in order to grow, so concentrate on starving it of phosphate. You could try a phosphate reactor, a refugium full of chaeto or caulerpa or some phosphate adsorbing resin in a HOB or canister filter. I use a refugium, and it works very nicely -- NO3 and PO4 are always undetectable.
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