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  #26  
Old 01/06/2008, 09:10 PM
tmz tmz is offline
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Yes if your going to stick with hypo get it down quickly. However,the dips may give some quick relief. If you choose the formalin dip, it will not only kill parasites on the skin it will also rid the fish of any flukes it may have. I know you are familiar with flukes form freshwater but the frayed fins and appearance of the translucent spots make me wonder.
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  #27  
Old 01/06/2008, 11:47 PM
Gary Majchrzak Gary Majchrzak is offline
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that fish appears to be in terrible shape and not eating foods that it should be attacking
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae)
  #28  
Old 01/07/2008, 03:24 PM
doryarlin955 doryarlin955 is offline
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I lowering the salinity as fast as I can atm. I'm also lowering the temp too, and I'm getting ready to do a freshwater dip, can I add formalin to the dip as well? Or will it not be effective enough in the 6-7 minutes he's in there?
  #29  
Old 01/07/2008, 03:49 PM
johno4 johno4 is offline
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Out of curiosity, why are you lowering the temp? Typically you would raise the temp slightly to speed up the life cycle of the parasite.

I have never added formalin so I cant help you there, sorry.
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  #30  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:02 PM
tmz tmz is offline
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I wouldn't add the formalin to fresh water dip. I don't know if the dosage would be different for freshwater vs, saltwater. I don't think it would but i'm not sure. The formalin dip is easy though and might even be less stressful than the fw dip. I use a buckett with a gallon of tank water and place a small power head in it. I dip for 50 minutes. I did this for a Hippo Tang that was about to be euthanized at the lfs. It was covered in parasites(proably flukes). After the dip it was clean, A follow up treatment with prazipro seeems to have it on the road to recovery. This fish looked terrible but it was eating.
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  #31  
Old 01/07/2008, 04:04 PM
tmz tmz is offline
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Correction: The fish looked terrible before the dip but was eating. it looked clean after and was still eating.
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  #32  
Old 01/07/2008, 05:51 PM
Gary Majchrzak Gary Majchrzak is offline
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while lowering salinity you should be raising the temperature- not dropping it.
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae)
  #33  
Old 01/07/2008, 05:59 PM
doryarlin955 doryarlin955 is offline
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I was lowering the temp according to someone else's advice (not here). I understand what you mean, how high should it be? Its at about 77*. Raising it makes much mroe sense. The sg is at 1.019 right now, and I'm dropping it to 1.012 (the lowest reading on my hydrometer). I'm also working on getting ahold of a refractometer, they were $60 at TRS and I couldn't afford it.
  #34  
Old 01/07/2008, 06:03 PM
josh.vince josh.vince is offline
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doryarlin - i have a refractometer and work in greece... i could stop by tomorrow if you want to help you out with salinity measurements.
  #35  
Old 01/07/2008, 10:13 PM
johno4 johno4 is offline
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Raise the temp to around 82-83 and drop your salinity down to 1.009 asap. If you cant get a refractometer just get a hydormeter that will get lower readings so you can get the salinity where it needs to be.
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  #36  
Old 01/08/2008, 06:40 AM
doryarlin955 doryarlin955 is offline
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Josh, sorry if it's too late but would I be able to borrow it for a day (you could drop it off and pick it up tomorrow?) I'll pm you.
  #37  
Old 01/08/2008, 03:08 PM
doryarlin955 doryarlin955 is offline
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I'm going to give it a formalin bath tonight, it's starting to regain some color but that's about it. I'm going to raise the temp up from where I have it, the fish was having some breathing issues and the person had recommended lowering the temp to increase the amount of oxygen the fish was getting. Now that it's over that I'm going to raise it to help fight the ich.
  #38  
Old 01/08/2008, 03:10 PM
tmz tmz is offline
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Raisng the temp won't necessarily fight the ich. It will accelerate it's life cycle. That is it will move from the fish to cysts back to the water more quickly. So if your tank is medicated, it will be exposed more quickly.
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  #39  
Old 01/08/2008, 07:45 PM
Gary Majchrzak Gary Majchrzak is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by johno4
Raise the temp to around 82-83 and drop your salinity down to 1.009 asap. If you cant get a refractometer just get a hydormeter that will get lower readings so you can get the salinity where it needs to be.
agreed. In addition make sure to keep the water well oxygenated with an airstone or similar.
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some common aquarium nuisances: Bryopsis,Derbesia(hair algae),Cyanobacteria(red slime), Diatoms(golden brown algae), Dinoflagellates(gooey air bubbles),Valonia (bubble algae)
  #40  
Old 01/08/2008, 10:00 PM
doryarlin955 doryarlin955 is offline
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Quote:
Raisng the temp won't necessarily fight the ich. It will accelerate it's life cycle. That is it will move from the fish to cysts back to the water more quickly. So if your tank is medicated, it will be exposed more quickly.
That's what I meant, sorry I'm a bit frazzled since I'm having problem with almost all my tanks right now, I just did 4 hours of straight fish work.

I've got an airline in teh tank too
  #41  
Old 01/08/2008, 10:00 PM
doryarlin955 doryarlin955 is offline
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Quote:
Raisng the temp won't necessarily fight the ich. It will accelerate it's life cycle. That is it will move from the fish to cysts back to the water more quickly. So if your tank is medicated, it will be exposed more quickly.
That's what I meant, sorry I'm a bit frazzled since I'm having problem with almost all my tanks right now, I just did 4 hours of straight fish work.

I've got an airline in teh tank too

I also added some copepods from my cultures, maybe he'll like them enough to try em.
  #42  
Old 01/08/2008, 10:06 PM
tmz tmz is offline
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Hang in there. It likely won't eat for a while at least untill wahtever ails it is alleviated,
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