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Old 03/30/2013, 07:36 AM   #51
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 823
I can answer some of your questions. I apologize if you only want to hear from Alprazo

EDIT: I should have thought of this originally, especially after deducing the sharks are in a reef tank. Reef tanks commonly have much more ELECTRICAL equipment associated with them compared to FO, on average. You should make doubly sure that there is no stray current. Sharks have an affinity to detecting electromagnetic fields and electric current through the use of their organ called Ampullae of Lorenzini. This organ can detect the the magnetic (electric) field given off by other living things a.k.a fish and other prey items in their surrounding waters. In aquaria, the use of electronic devices such as powerheads, perhaps not vortechs where its mostly external, may drive a sharks sense wild resulting in erratic swimming. There is some debate as to whether the use of a grounding probe is beneficial or not. Some say it gives stray current exactly what it needs to create a circuit, whereas others say the sharks/fish are better off without the probe because they (sharks) are not grounded themselves so they wont feel it. But it does get picked up by their AOL. Something to check, thats all. May actually nullify everything below.

IME sharks lay in front of pump outlets and powerheads because being that they have evolved with the ability to not have to swim in order to breathe much like "swimming sharks" or obligate ram ventilators that must stay in motion to pass water through their mouth and out there gills. The bamboos take advantage of the pumping water to help aerate there gills as they lay motionless. Its not a complete mechanism of breathing but it does aid.

Your second question:

I have noticed when i move larger sharks into smaller tanks for Quarantine. The erratic swimming pattern and Im guessing you may also see the shark roll over as he swims forward? I believe this to either be a DO problem, a PH problem, a lack of space OR the original reason they were being QTed and that is parasites (Keep reading...). When the large sharks were returned to there original dwelling, the behavior stopped.

You also mentioned flitting or flashing? This might indicate a gill fluke or nematode, a parasitic copepod, or basically just some type of villain. An external parasite may also indicate the rolling or abnormal swimming pattern. He may be trying to rid himself of something on his dorsal or pectoral side. If this is the case than i would dose him with Praziquantel immediately. It sounds like you have him in a reef? I believe in my experience that prazi is reef safe. I recently dosed it on my big shark breeding system, which has Macro algae tanks that contain soft corals and a plethora of Inverts Ive been collecting with no harm done, not even a closing of polyps on the softies. You may not want to take that risk, but if flukes are in your tank, and this has been going on for a while, than a tank bath may be best. Otherwise QT the shark and dose Prazi as directed for 3-5 days, then do a 100% WC and if he needs another treatment, do it for another 3-5 days. This has eradicated plenty of parasites in my experience and it usually shows instant relief. But during this treatment make sure to provide plenty of aeration if you do it in a QT. You must shut your skimmer down and remove carbon. Shutting the skimmer lowers your DO and the viscous Prazi lowers DO/ORP slightly as well, so adding airstones is a must, as well as surface agitation by aiming a Powerhead at the surface to create some turbulence for gas exchange.

In retrospect, its best to purchase yearlings, rather than hatchlings and eggs. This is due to the fact that soo many eggs end up not hatching, or they hatch and never take to food, which ends in a long term force-feeding that even still sometimes ends in death. The other reason not to purchase eggs is based on factual data. So many sharks make it through the hatching phase but are not suited for living. As is the case with human babies and all sorts of live-bearing and egglaying animals. Look at the mortality rate with egg laying fish! Some fish eggs only have a 10% success rate of making it through metamorphosis and into juvenile stages. It may be an abnormality internally thats only viewed through a necropsy, or just some genetic abnormality period. As you said, it seems like your bamboo shark is not seeing correctly, has this always been the case? or is it morre recent? Some flukes and parasites can also attack the eyes. Is there anything visible on the eyes? Are they cloudy?
Do you have a very rigid photoperiod? Too much actinic light? A majority of actinic lighting over your tank, can damage any animals eyes permanently, (in general lol)

Please explain a little bit more about your system including tank length and width and tankmates, etc, as well as parameters and your source for the eggs? Also, do you have a suitably sized QT that you could remove the sharks into for treatment if thats what you decide to do?

EDIT**: I answered a lot of my own questions, ie., photoperiod, actinics, etc,etc by deducing that you have chalices and acropora, which would indeed indicate a reef tank. In addition there is a very good shark forum out there on the vast Interweb. PM for the address. A lot of experienced shark/ray keepers and a lot of your questions may already be answered there.

Even though you are upgrading to a 240, this will not house the sharks for very long. The species you happen to have, grows to a very large average adult size. Give or take they become three feet long and have a very large body mass. Even at around 2 feet they weigh more than a tank full of large bony fish combined. Just something to ponder, how much longer you will be able to care for them and if you have the option to purchase a larger tank. Check out that other website Im referring you too for tank size recommendations.

Good Luck

Last edited by griseum; 03/30/2013 at 08:06 AM.
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