Reef Central Online Community
Premium Aquatics

Home Forum Here you can view your subscribed threads, work with private messages and edit your profile and preferences View New Posts View Today's Posts

Find other members Frequently Asked Questions Search Reefkeeping ...an online magazine for marine aquarists Support our sponsors and mention Reef Central

Go Back   Reef Central Online Community > General Interest Forums > Do It Yourself
Register Blogs FAQ Calendar Mark Forums Read

Notices

User Tag List

Reply
Thread Tools
Old 05/15/2010, 08:52 AM   #26
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by tegee View Post
I have a 1/3hp JBJ chiller on a 180-gl. sps tank. It takes a long time (sometimes 3 hrs) to take the temp. down 2-degrees. I had a local HVAC repair person thoroughly clean the condenser and heat exchanger; both of which were very dirty and now they are spotless. I hook it up yesterday and it still takes a very long time to come down 2-degrees.

I performed a static test on it last night and it takes about 20-minutes to come down about 2-degrees and then does not come down anymore than say from 77 to maybe 75.8 degrees.

Do you know what the problem might be from here? Can it be the compressor? He said the freon should be fine and that there were no signs of leaks? He did not want to test for freon because he stated he would have to pierce the system to test???

Can someone please chime in and let me know what my next step should be? Can I replace a compressor or is it cost prohibitive???

Thanks in advance for any help......
it could be the location of the chiller if the chiller is under the stand you could be recirculating the hot air off the condencer coil ( stacking air). try setting it outside the stand. when you put a chiller under a stand it should be in its own sealed compartment with a cut out the size of the coil up against the cut out and a 4'' cooling fan blowing into the compartment , also a min of 4'' off the wall, if the chiller does not have good cool air flow it will not be able to cool correctly, depending on the chiller and if its american or a jap made compressor and btu's and amp drawn can be closely matched then the compressor can be replaced cost effective not at all, unless you can do it your self it would most likely cost as much as a new chiller or more ,


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2010, 01:46 PM   #27
tegee
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 831
ihavtats29...........

What are your thoughts on this???

I have a 1/3hp JBJ chiller on a 180-gl. sps tank. It takes a long time (sometimes 3 hrs) to take the temp. down 2-degrees. I had a local HVAC repair person thoroughly clean the condenser and heat exchanger; both of which were very dirty and now they are spotless. I hook it up yesterday and it still takes a very long time to come down 2-degrees.

I performed a static test on it last night and it takes about 20-minutes to come down about 2-degrees and then does not come down anymore than say from 77 to maybe 75.8 degrees.

Do you know what the problem might be from here? Can it be the compressor? He said the freon should be fine and that there were no signs of leaks? He did not want to test for freon because he stated he would have to pierce the system to test???

Can someone please chime in and let me know what my next step should be? Can I replace a compressor or is it cost prohibitive???

Thanks in advance for any help......


__________________
180-gl. SPS Miracles Tank 60" x 24" x 29". Lighting is Old School...(3) 250w MH Radiums using M80 ballasts w/ VHO Actinics (2) EcoTech MP60's, 75-gl. Sump, Kalk Reactor, MRC CalRx, Hurricone Skimmer
tegee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2010, 02:31 PM   #28
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
either what i posted above or there is a leak some where in the system , most leaks will be found at the flare connections going into the heat exchanger, the compressor can be check by amp draw getting close to the rated running amps also feel the suction line on the compressor commoni from the heat exchanger it will be insulated and should get cold when running located near the top on the side of the compressor, carefull not to grab the discharge line going to the condencer coil for it will be HOT, if the suction line is not getting cold there is most likely a refridgerant leak, slim odds that the compressor is not pumping


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2010, 02:39 PM   #29
cee
Registered Member
 
cee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: popping by
Posts: 4,041
What are typical high and low pressures in the system?


__________________
"keeping low doesn't make no sense --
sometimes people can be oh so dense" Charles Thompson IV

Current Tank Info: 80 gallon rimless DBA
cee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/15/2010, 04:38 PM   #30
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
it depends on the type of refridgerant and load the chiller is under along with ambiant temps, an average r-22 system would have a low/ suction preasure around 65psi and the high/ discharge/liquid line preasure between 175 and 225


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/16/2010, 05:34 AM   #31
BFG
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 700
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihavtats29 View Post
Good answer , the only issue with a remote temp sensor is that if your pump fails the chiller will keep chilling and will freeze the water in the heat exchanger causing the exchanger to crack, if you put a remote sensor on the system you should add a flow switch in the entering water line with a low voltage relay and transformer controling the mainpower keeping the chiller from running with out a pump, about a additional $40 that will save you from having to replace your chiller due to a cracked exchanger
Yup, the pump is the only factor that could failed and that is avoidable by using a work horse pump like an Eheim pump. As for the float switch, I'm not a technical wizard by trade so I can't fiddle with stuff I'm not familiar with. The modification was done by my air-con technician. I have since upgraded to a Mitsubishi air-con compressor with rubber coated coil in the sump together with an external temperature probe. The worry of the chiller freezing is over with this upgrade but still the achilles heel is still in the pump.


__________________
If you've learnt, teach.
If you have, give.
BFG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/16/2010, 08:09 AM   #32
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
not a float switch a flow switsh , it sences water flow thru the pipe gong into the chiler, basicly its a pvc t that is inline that has a no/nc switch with a paddle on it when the water passes over the paddle it closes the switch and allows the chiller to run when water flow is lost the switch will turn off the chiller, it is what is used on all comercial chillers and boilers as a main safty


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/16/2010, 09:32 AM   #33
tegee
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 831
ok ihavtats.......first THANK you very much for your help so far.

Here is the deal with my jbj 1/3hp chiller. When a perform a static test the temp now drops pretty quickly from 79 to 62 degrees in about 5-minutes. The compressor feels cool to the touch and the suction line into the compressor is also noticeably cool, while the outlet tubing to the condenser is hot as you described. All good signs I would assume. I do want to note that I had a local HVAC guy thoroughly clean the condenser and heat exchange, so we are good there.

Ok, now to the good stuff. I let the chiller completely cool down from the morning static tests. I have now lights on, only my 3-external pumps running, etc. Had the chiller kick on at 79 degrees and now the chiller has been running for 30-minutes and it is still running at 79 degrees. The compressor is now very hot to the touch and the suction line is only slightly cool to the touch not very cold like it was during the static tests. I am going to say that it will take at least 2-hours to cool down 2-degrees.

BTW: I pulled the chiller out into open area by adding 4'+ feet of 3/4" tubing so it is not stacking its own heat, which was a great suggestions. Although not in a closet or under stand, it was definitely in tight quarters.

What do you think can be the problem? Is this chiller simply under rated for a 200-gl. sps tank. The HVAC guy told me that if the compressor gets too hot (overworked) there is a safety type switch that trips the compressor so it does not overheat. Can that be happening. I have a Blueline recirculating pump hook up that is rated for 1200-gls/hr and when I did the RC head loss calculations it states that it is only pumping about ~500-gls./hr with all the ells, ballvalves, etc.

Please advise as to what I should check next........MANY THANKS again for all your help to date.


__________________
180-gl. SPS Miracles Tank 60" x 24" x 29". Lighting is Old School...(3) 250w MH Radiums using M80 ballasts w/ VHO Actinics (2) EcoTech MP60's, 75-gl. Sump, Kalk Reactor, MRC CalRx, Hurricone Skimmer
tegee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/16/2010, 05:28 PM   #34
checkx1
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Tx
Posts: 60
Any insight on good quality chillers and ones to avoid. Looking to get one for total water
volume of 60g.


checkx1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2010, 08:05 AM   #35
BFG
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 700
Tegee, what is directly behind the chiller now? There should be about a couple of feet or more behind the chiller so the hot air could dissipate. If you place it right near a wall, the heat might also be recycled back into the chiller. You could raise the chiller and place near the window so that the hot air is vented outside.


Checkx1, chiller from China are cheap and ok in my book, had used them before, only that they should have an external temperature probe modification done on them. I had one WITHOUT the modification and it over worked and broke down. A friend of mine has the same model WITH the modification done and is still running nearly a year now. My upgraded air-con compressor chiller is also modded with the external temperature probe. As long as you take care of the chiller by giving it space to vent hot air away from it and regular maintenance on the condenser/heat exchanger, you might have a worry free chiller for a few years and if they broke down, replacing one isn't going to break the bank. Arctica and Teco are a good brand but you need to check for their after sales service.

1 thing I remembered now is to check for stray current from the mod. The technician doing the modification might not do a good job so checking this is absolutely important. Mine is free from stray current in the water.


__________________
If you've learnt, teach.
If you have, give.
BFG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2010, 11:47 AM   #36
ThaNgBOm321
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Tx, houston
Posts: 792
Quote:
Originally Posted by ihavtats29 View Post
that is not correct . basic refridgeration 101 the condencer coil does exactly what it says, the compressor , compersses a lolw pressure cool gas into a high pressure hot gas it then moves to the condencer coil that converts the hot gas to a warm liquid it movesot the evaporator coil frist going thru a expansion devise changing the warm liquid to a saturated vapor in the evaporator coil the air or water flowing across the coil is where you get you cooling from


heh, your right, I was just plotting things down before i had the change to reread by thermal dynamic. Good thing someone knows what they are doing. (happen to be type 3 universal myself but i suck at it)

YzGyz


__________________
YzGyz = Wise Guys ohhh and cows go MOOO!!!

2nd best way is to learn from ones own mistakes but the best way to learn is from others...

thx to Randy and so many other for making reefing that much easier
ThaNgBOm321 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2010, 05:32 PM   #37
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by tegee View Post
ok ihavtats.......first THANK you very much for your help so far.

Here is the deal with my jbj 1/3hp chiller. When a perform a static test the temp now drops pretty quickly from 79 to 62 degrees in about 5-minutes. The compressor feels cool to the touch and the suction line into the compressor is also noticeably cool, while the outlet tubing to the condenser is hot as you described. All good signs I would assume. I do want to note that I had a local HVAC guy thoroughly clean the condenser and heat exchange, so we are good there.

Ok, now to the good stuff. I let the chiller completely cool down from the morning static tests. I have now lights on, only my 3-external pumps running, etc. Had the chiller kick on at 79 degrees and now the chiller has been running for 30-minutes and it is still running at 79 degrees. The compressor is now very hot to the touch and the suction line is only slightly cool to the touch not very cold like it was during the static tests. I am going to say that it will take at least 2-hours to cool down 2-degrees.

BTW: I pulled the chiller out into open area by adding 4'+ feet of 3/4" tubing so it is not stacking its own heat, which was a great suggestions. Although not in a closet or under stand, it was definitely in tight quarters.

What do you think can be the problem? Is this chiller simply under rated for a 200-gl. sps tank. The HVAC guy told me that if the compressor gets too hot (overworked) there is a safety type switch that trips the compressor so it does not overheat. Can that be happening. I have a Blueline recirculating pump hook up that is rated for 1200-gls/hr and when I did the RC head loss calculations it states that it is only pumping about ~500-gls./hr with all the ells, ballvalves, etc.

Please advise as to what I should check next........MANY THANKS again for all your help to date.
the safty the tech was refering to is thermal protection if it over heats is cuts off the common leg of power to the compressor untill it cools down enough, if that were the issue the compressor would not run, with coils clean and plenty of breathing room its not a over heating issue , it seems to me there is nothing wrong with the chiller but maybe too much heat load for it to handle. 1/3 hp chiller = 1/3 ton = 4,000 BTU
1 hp /ton = 12,000 btu's
you can calculate you btu heat out put by getting your total wattage of your equipment ballasts , pumps , heaters exct.... multiply that # by 3.5

then your lighting in wattage total x 4.25

add the 2 totals together that is the amount btu's your tank is putting off

for example if your lighting were 800 watts and the total of the rest of your equipment were 520 watts
800x4.25= 3400 btu's
520x3.5= 1820 btu's
totals 5220 btu's

you would need a 1/2 hp or 1/2 ton chiller to handle the load


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2010, 05:43 PM   #38
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by checkx1 View Post
Any insight on good quality chillers and ones to avoid. Looking to get one for total water
volume of 60g.
to be honest current makes a decent chiller for the cost, well the dont make it they just put thier name on it, trade winds can be costly but a a bit higher in quality, just make sure you get a chiller (if you need one) that will handle the load that is put on it


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2010, 05:56 PM   #39
tegee
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 831
Thank you very much for all your help.....I think you may be right. I am on the borderline for a 1/2hp. I ran some quick math using your equations and I came up with 3825 in lighting demands and 1330 in pump wattage demands. That totals ~5155 btu's; falling into the 1/2hp and/or 1/2 ton catagory. Well at least the good news is that nothing is wrong with the chiller and it has been professionally service, so I can safely see if someone can use it locally. Now I am off to spending some serious $$$ on a 1/2hp which is the bad news. Gosh, I hate this hobby sometimes.....lol.

Thanks again and I will post if something should change along the way. But your professional help is greatly appreciated......


__________________
180-gl. SPS Miracles Tank 60" x 24" x 29". Lighting is Old School...(3) 250w MH Radiums using M80 ballasts w/ VHO Actinics (2) EcoTech MP60's, 75-gl. Sump, Kalk Reactor, MRC CalRx, Hurricone Skimmer
tegee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2010, 06:43 PM   #40
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
not a problem


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/17/2010, 07:21 PM   #41
tegee
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 831
Yep, just plugged in a 1/3hp Teco and that could not keep up either. Looks like I need to place an order tomorrow AM for a 1/2hp; what a bummer!


__________________
180-gl. SPS Miracles Tank 60" x 24" x 29". Lighting is Old School...(3) 250w MH Radiums using M80 ballasts w/ VHO Actinics (2) EcoTech MP60's, 75-gl. Sump, Kalk Reactor, MRC CalRx, Hurricone Skimmer
tegee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2010, 05:19 AM   #42
BFG
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Singapore
Posts: 700
I do not know how your climate is at your place but where I live, the advice to follow is to buy a chiller 1 step up than what you'll need. Just in case you get hot weather for a prolong time. So if you need a 1/2hp chiller, get the 1hp ones instead. The chiller would have extra power to weather the hot months without straining or over worked. This is the advice that was handed down to me from other chiller user in my country. We do get hot weather a few month in the year.

Hope this helps!


__________________
If you've learnt, teach.
If you have, give.
BFG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2010, 10:34 AM   #43
tegee
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 831
That's the problem. There is no real tweener hp chiller. It goes from 1/2hp right to 1hp with very little to choose from in the 3/4hp category.


__________________
180-gl. SPS Miracles Tank 60" x 24" x 29". Lighting is Old School...(3) 250w MH Radiums using M80 ballasts w/ VHO Actinics (2) EcoTech MP60's, 75-gl. Sump, Kalk Reactor, MRC CalRx, Hurricone Skimmer
tegee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2010, 03:26 PM   #44
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
your in NY dude i grew up in buffalo you max in the low 90's with a occasional freakish 95+ lol a 1/2 should do ya but if conserned and no a/c in your house like i grew up in you mite need the 1 hp


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/18/2010, 05:49 PM   #45
tegee
Premium Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: NY
Posts: 831
Yea, close to NYC....not quite the Buffalo cool breeze:-).

Looking at the Tradewinds 1/2hp compact unit IL-49-S. States it does 4900 btu at 8amps with 1"inlet/outlet. Apparently their btu numbers are spot on and not overstated. Did quite a bit of homework and you go over 1/3hp, these chillers really shine.

Is that what you and others feel is a good bet? Their Super 1/2hp will probably be overkill for my application??? JBJ's 1/2hp states 6000 btu, but I have heard is not actual. So the jury is still out until I pull the plug and purchase.


__________________
180-gl. SPS Miracles Tank 60" x 24" x 29". Lighting is Old School...(3) 250w MH Radiums using M80 ballasts w/ VHO Actinics (2) EcoTech MP60's, 75-gl. Sump, Kalk Reactor, MRC CalRx, Hurricone Skimmer
tegee is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/24/2010, 10:39 AM   #46
dahenley
Registered Member
 
dahenley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 3,165
I have a Pacific coast 1/2 hp chiller. i picked it up used with no warranties, and i took it home and checked it over, and everything looks great. I plugged it in with no water running through it to make sure the pump and condencer works. it turned on and started cooling.

next i hooked up a pump with a bucket of water to flush and to check for leaks before i put it in the house.

everything looked good, but the tempature gauge was set at 73 deg (for trial purposes) and the water was reading 75 deg. so i figured it would turn on a run for a bit. i walked away for a few minutes and came back to a reading in the low 60's.

i am mechanically inclined, so fixing isnt a problem, but i need some dirrection.
I am guessing there is a thermal swich that turns the chiller on and off, but dont know where to look. Can you give me some insite on where to look, or what to look for?

the chiller is a
Pacific Coast
C-0500
110-115v


__________________
Its not just my tank, its OUR tank!!! :-)

240display, reef in progress

Current Tank Info: 240 display, a few frags here and there. lots of fish, and lots of watching. (230 big screen getting re-sealed and going to add to the gallonage) My wife has no clue how addicted i really am.....
dahenley is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/24/2010, 10:56 AM   #47
grosse schlumpf
Registered Member
 
grosse schlumpf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 2
super size me

my tank is 1010 gal. It has a surface area of about 38 square feet of surface area. i guess the average room temp with lights on will be about 78 degrees. I would like to keep the water at 74. There is a sump area connected to the system. what is the preferred size of chiller?


__________________
If your not part of the solution, your part of the
precipitate.

Current Tank Info: 3820 liter under construction; former 752 liter, current custom "cubby hole" in the stairs fitted tank
grosse schlumpf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/24/2010, 03:27 PM   #48
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by dahenley View Post
I have a Pacific coast 1/2 hp chiller. i picked it up used with no warranties, and i took it home and checked it over, and everything looks great. I plugged it in with no water running through it to make sure the pump and condencer works. it turned on and started cooling.

next i hooked up a pump with a bucket of water to flush and to check for leaks before i put it in the house.

everything looked good, but the tempature gauge was set at 73 deg (for trial purposes) and the water was reading 75 deg. so i figured it would turn on a run for a bit. i walked away for a few minutes and came back to a reading in the low 60's.

i am mechanically inclined, so fixing isnt a problem, but i need some dirrection.
I am guessing there is a thermal swich that turns the chiller on and off, but dont know where to look. Can you give me some insite on where to look, or what to look for?

the chiller is a
Pacific Coast
C-0500
110-115v
the thermistor is located in the heat exchanger, just to make sure you do have a pump pumping water into the chiller? it sounds like there is no water flow going thru the heat exchanger. you can check the accuracy of the thermistor by checking your tank water temp with a lab grade thermometer to the temp reading on the chiller with the chiller not calling for cooling


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/24/2010, 03:36 PM   #49
ihavtats29
Registered Member
 
ihavtats29's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: cordova , TN
Posts: 2,882
Quote:
Originally Posted by grosse schlumpf View Post
my tank is 1010 gal. It has a surface area of about 38 square feet of surface area. i guess the average room temp with lights on will be about 78 degrees. I would like to keep the water at 74. There is a sump area connected to the system. what is the preferred size of chiller?
you can calculate you but heat load by getting your total wattage of your equipment ballasts , pumps , heaters exct.... multiply that # by 3.5

then your lighting in wattage total x 4.25

add the 2 totals together that is the amount btu's your tank is putting off

for example if your lighting were 800 watts and the total of the rest of your equipment were 520 watts
800x4.25= 3400 btu's
520x3.5= 1820 btu's
totals 5220 btu's that would require a 1/2 ton/hp chiller

there are 12000 btu's per ton/hp of refridgeration
do your research on the chillers you are looking at and get one that just exceeeds the btu's you require most manufactures will round up the btu's

hope this helps


__________________
got reef?

Current Tank Info: 29 biocube HQI
ihavtats29 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05/24/2010, 05:56 PM   #50
dahenley
Registered Member
 
dahenley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Lubbock, Tx
Posts: 3,165
I hooked a pump to the chiller and it works great. It just doesn't quit cooling. The digital gauge reads exactly what the bucket temperature is. I'm asking what makes the chiller quit working so it doesn't freeze my tank.


__________________
Its not just my tank, its OUR tank!!! :-)

240display, reef in progress

Current Tank Info: 240 display, a few frags here and there. lots of fish, and lots of watching. (230 big screen getting re-sealed and going to add to the gallonage) My wife has no clue how addicted i really am.....
dahenley is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 01:42 AM.


TapaTalk Enabled

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Powered by Searchlight © 2021 Axivo Inc.
Use of this web site is subject to the terms and conditions described in the user agreement.
Reef CentralTM Reef Central, LLC. Copyright 1999-2014
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2021 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.