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Old 03/24/2008, 12:11 AM   #876
zachslow
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Old 03/24/2008, 12:27 PM   #877
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Hi Marc,

Based on all the good things that were said, Just got myself the RS135, and I'm excited to see it work!

There are 2 questions in the manual that I hope you can help me understand a lil bit:

1. It says to "trim or adjust the position of the outlet pipe so that the bottom where the water exits is above the water level". What does this mean? Just as with this picture, my outlet pipe is below the water level.

2. What exactly are the uses for the Air Control Valve? Do you usually fiddle with it? Or you leave it on at all times.

Thanks!
Fernando

Quote:
Originally posted by melev
It looks as right as a skimmer can that is turned off.



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Old 03/24/2008, 01:12 PM   #878
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The output pipe where the water pours out should be right at the water's level. If it is above, you'll hear it splashing. If your return pump is off, the sump's water level rises and can cause backpressure on the skimmer. The skimmer may overflow its collection cup perhaps, but it would take serious back pressure to do so.

Mine is 1" underwater, so I don't hear it.

I don't use air control valves. Mine is an older model that didn't even come with them. Just flexible airline tubing, that's all I got.


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Old 03/25/2008, 10:56 PM   #879
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i dunno about you guys, but over the last couple of years i've been having some serious skimmer envy! i feel like technology advances are fossilizing my pair of old school CS8-2's !

i've done my best to squeeze every ounce of efficiency out of them by making them direct feed, recirculating, gate valved and mesh-modded. heck, my sedra 5000's are over 5 years old!

the most popular feature today seems to be that bubble diffuser plate. think it'd be worth a shot to integrate one into my dinosaurs? or are they just the latest trend?

c'mon melev, you're the acrylic master and i KNOW you can do it!


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Old 03/25/2008, 11:15 PM   #880
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Why should I do that? You can bet if it is something that is good, Euroreef will do it for us.


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Old 03/25/2008, 11:31 PM   #881
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think they'll make a retro bubble diffuser kit for us anytime soon?
i'd hate to see it available only in the newest models .


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Old 03/25/2008, 11:33 PM   #882
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Let's assume you could make a retro one. How would you get it in via the neck?


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Old 03/25/2008, 11:52 PM   #883
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man, i really don't know. i wouldn't want to remove the bottom plate and re-glue it . i guess i'd have to see how big a diffuser plate is really needed. seen some skimmers where the plate section looks like a smaller inner cylinder and other designs where the plate fits the entire body.

maybe even something simple that snugs down to the beginning of the neck area?


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Old 03/26/2008, 12:07 AM   #884
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Here's a possible idea: Get the needlepoint mesh they sell at Walmart or any other hobby store. Drill holes through it, or snip out some squares to make them larger. Wedge that into the skimmer body and see if that makes any difference.

Matter of fact, they have a type of HDPE cutting board material that is almost exactly like a placemat. I found some at Ikea that was two for $.75 that were about 1/8" thick. You could make a bubble plate, roll it up, slip it in, and unfurl it into place. The only issue I would imagine next is to secure it to the walls of the skimmer so it stays where it should be. Some type of hard plastic ring that hugs the walls would be good. Maybe more cutting board material, siliconed to the walls so it can hold temporarily. If you hate it, it would peel right out and the skimmer would work as it did before.


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Old 03/26/2008, 12:16 AM   #885
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good call man! maybe even a bunch of wadded up gutter guard or similar material placed adjacent to the sedra output would be enuf to reduce the turbulance. maybe even placed in the neck area. right now, my skimmers are 3/4 full of air but there is much turbulance in the neck.


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Old 03/26/2008, 12:25 AM   #886
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Quote:
Originally posted by tfp
good call man! maybe even a bunch of wadded up gutter guard or similar material placed adjacent to the sedra output would be enuf to reduce the turbulance. maybe even placed in the neck area. right now, my skimmers are 3/4 full of air but there is much turbulance in the neck.
Hey Tim. I have some gutterguard laying around after my overflow mod. I also have alot of fine bird netting that you may be able to wad into a ball.


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Old 03/26/2008, 01:43 AM   #887
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I don't think something wadded up in the neck is a good idea. All the detritus and waste you hope to export would surely get clogged up in the mesh.


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Old 03/26/2008, 12:08 PM   #888
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fernandokng.... I have the RS135. Great skimmer but it will overflow from the following:
1. Clogged airline valve....just salty air will clog the needle valve...get rid of it and run the RS135 open with a silencer like those described earlier in this thread
2. Clogged venturi air inlet....mostly salt creep....can occur every few weeks or so.....each time I empty skimmate I use a drill bit to remove the build-up from the air imput on the venturi.
3. Forgeting to open-up the skimmers output if you can predict a rise in the sump water level. This might be resulting from the back pressure stuff Melev (ps. thanks for your contribution to the hobby Melev!!) was talking about.

Good luck


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Old 03/28/2008, 08:53 AM   #889
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Thanks.

Another question, can someone tell me how does the height of the water level in the sump impact the performance in the skimmer?

Ideally, I'd like to run this at 9" of water, but EuroReef recommends at 6.5". But I don't understand the reasoning behind this...


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Old 03/29/2008, 08:36 AM   #890
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I have the RS-135 - Sedra 5000, If I wanted to replace this pump, what choices would I have besides another sedra 5000?

Thanks in advance


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Old 03/29/2008, 09:04 PM   #891
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Quote:
Originally posted by fernandokng
Thanks.

Another question, can someone tell me how does the height of the water level in the sump impact the performance in the skimmer?

Ideally, I'd like to run this at 9" of water, but EuroReef recommends at 6.5". But I don't understand the reasoning behind this...
Place it on a 2.5" or 3" stand.


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Old 03/30/2008, 03:09 PM   #892
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Quote:
Originally posted by melev
Place it on a 2.5" or 3" stand.
Yup, that's what I'm going to do, but just trying to understand the "science" behind it :-)


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Old 03/30/2008, 06:01 PM   #893
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Oh. The water level within the skimmer should be at a certain height, based on mfg's recommendations. If it is submerged too much, I'm guessing it is a back pressure type of situation.

Using the gate valve (or twist tube system), you can choose to raise and lower that internal level, but if it is submerged deeper than recommended, that option becomes limited and sometimes even detrimental to efficiency.

That's just my thoughts as a hobbyist, because I really don't like to think too hard on some of these topics. Just tell me what works, and I'll be happy to follow those guidelines.


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Old 03/30/2008, 09:07 PM   #894
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Anyone hear of a cs6-8? Someone is selling it along with other items and I cannot find any info on it, most likely a typo?


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Old 03/31/2008, 09:43 AM   #895
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I got a couple different types of enkamat from an online dealer as a sample.

I received some 7020:



And some 7220:



Which should I use for the mesh mod? This mod is going to be done to a Sedra 3500 for a Euro-reef RS-80.

I have seen it done with 3 layers of 7020 as well as 1 layer of 7220 and 1 layer of 7020. What would be best do you guys think??

The 7220 has a weird thick flat back, pictured here, which might make it good/bad...:



Thoughts?


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Old 03/31/2008, 09:58 AM   #896
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I've heard good results from those that used the flat back...I did my 5-3/sedra 3500 two 3weeks ago with three layers of the 7020 (looks like) and had to really trim things down. If too thick you can't get the housing on/pump will not start.


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Old 03/31/2008, 10:08 AM   #897
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you mean like thick coming at you off the face of the wheel?? or do you mean like too large in diameter?


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Old 04/01/2008, 09:24 AM   #898
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I emailed EuroReef and got a great explanation:

Question 1: Can you tell me what is the correlation between the height level of the water in the sump and the impact of the performance on the skimmer? For ex: 6.5 inches vs. 10 inches.

The water level in the sump dictates the minimum water level in the skimmer. The higher the water level in the skimmer, the less control over skimmate quality and overall performance you have because you can’t lower the water level in the skimmer. It will run “wet” at a high water level and will remove a lot of water with the waste. This water level also negatively affects the Venturi apparatus in that increased pressure on the pump intake due to higher water level will limit the amount of air that can be inducted. (see below)

Question 2: Looking to move my drain line closer to the pump opening so I can get more of a direct feed to the pump. But there's a lot of splashing coming down from the drain. How does this affect the performance?

2. The pump should not be taking in water that has any air/ bubbles in it. It will negatively affect the pressure differential inside the venturi and decrease the amount of air it can induct.


Quote:
Originally posted by melev
Oh. The water level within the skimmer should be at a certain height, based on mfg's recommendations. If it is submerged too much, I'm guessing it is a back pressure type of situation.

Using the gate valve (or twist tube system), you can choose to raise and lower that internal level, but if it is submerged deeper than recommended, that option becomes limited and sometimes even detrimental to efficiency.

That's just my thoughts as a hobbyist, because I really don't like to think too hard on some of these topics. Just tell me what works, and I'll be happy to follow those guidelines.



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Old 04/01/2008, 09:27 AM   #899
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I had trim the diameter a bit too, but the thickness adds pressure on the impellerwhen you put the volute on the pump tight. I trimmed the "hairs" from the surface. If I had it available, I would try to use the flat backed surface outward/on top.


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Old 04/01/2008, 12:41 PM   #900
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I never thought of that! By raising the water height, it definitely affects the venturi's ability to draw in air. That makes total sense. Thanks for posting that.


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