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Old 10/08/2016, 08:41 AM   #8976
Apotack
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Try running a poly filter or cuprisorb for a while, see if there is a color change.


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Old 10/08/2016, 12:15 PM   #8977
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apotack View Post
Try running a poly filter or cuprisorb for a while, see if there is a color change.
Good idea. I called every store I know and they don't carry the Cuprisorb. Funny they carry copper treatments (Venom, but no anti-Venom).
I'm using ChemiPure, and Carbon (should help a bit). Plus will do a few water changes staggered over next few day.

Anyway, the Mirror water came up Zero Copper on test kit.
and the Hermit Crab survived the night.

Maybe it's just something else.


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Old 10/09/2016, 09:18 AM   #8978
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I think I figured out my SPS Coral Tissue Recession MYSTERY. Not 100% sure, but will know soon.
It's probably, not the Mirror/Copper, not the Scrubber/NutrientDrop. It's my salt that I changed last bucket purchase and had in storage till I ran out (Which I did run out installing that new SUMP).

I got my clue yesterday when I notice something odd happening in my other NON SPS tank. I never did a water change in a while in that stable tank, so I tried to catch up my doing a 20% change (that was about a week ago). Instead of seeing my LPS corals perk up the next day from the Water Change, thet didn't improve at all (it caught my attention, but thought nothing of it). But yesterday I notice one of my torches loose it's color. Healthy but kind of went translucent. NOthing has happened in the tank for a year.

I then looked again at my bucket of salt. It's Aquaforest "Sea Salt", not "Reef Salt" which is not for demanding corals like LPS/SPS. I didn't notice since both buckets are similar purple. Plus during this Sump Transition, I didn't put in my dosing system yet. I wash dosing manually, and it was odd that my MAG levels were drastically dropping (so I topped up MAG, not thinking much). I wonder what else this low end salt is missing and could explain my slow tissue recession along with other factors in the Sump Swap.

As soon as stores opens, going to get some Trusty "Tropic Marine PRO" and do a larger water change on both tanks.


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Old 10/09/2016, 12:44 PM   #8979
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Also was that a new bucket? If so did you use all of it? If not, did you mix it up thoroughly?


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Old 10/09/2016, 01:27 PM   #8980
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Also was that a new bucket? If so did you use all of it? If not, did you mix it up thoroughly?
Yes it was a brand new bucket.

No, I didn't use all of it up. Still have about 1/4 left. ( I tested a small batch, and yes MAG is low on this stuff 1175, thus the explanation for my MAG drops and need to supplement more than usual). Bucket does say Pottasium=350, so that is low too, also got a Salifert K kit (always wanted one) so will test later.).

Yes, I always mix my water for several hours, or overnight.

I got my new bucket of Tropic Marine Pro. Mixing a large Garbage can's worth. Later tonight. ill do a WC change on my LPS tank first, to see if I see a Trumpet Coral coral perk up. Then I'll do a similar WC on the SPS tank.

This topic probably doesn't belong on this thread anymore, however I'll post till I have a conclusive conclusion. If that is ok.


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Old 10/09/2016, 01:35 PM   #8981
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I meant did you mix the salt up thoroughly before using part of it. Not doing so can mean some components that settle out during transportation will result in concentrations varying as you use it a little at a time. This is why you should always mix your salt before using.


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Old 10/09/2016, 02:03 PM   #8982
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I have heard this is the most important step^^ that is why really nice salt is a two or more part mix

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Old 10/09/2016, 04:50 PM   #8983
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Or get a large enough container to mix an entire bag or bucket at once.

I have a 55g that I have float switches at the bottom that shuts off my automatic water changes and alerts me to refill. Then I have a float valve and mark up top to fill to that allows me to dump in a bag and achieve 35ppt.


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Old 10/09/2016, 05:35 PM   #8984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Floyd R Turbo View Post
I meant did you mix the salt up thoroughly before using part of it. Not doing so can mean some components that settle out during transportation will result in concentrations varying as you use it a little at a time. This is why you should always mix your salt before using.
wow. I never knew that. Never have done it ever in 15 years+. Thanks for mentioning. Will do that right away. must be dusty to do. What I best way. Tall dry garbage can.

but I do notice the better packages like aquaforest and tropic marine bag the salt tightly inside the bucket. Reef Crystal boxes are also tighly wrapped bads. Can't see bagged stuff settling that much. But no harm doing a dry mix.



Last edited by Wally.B; 10/09/2016 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 10/09/2016, 10:18 PM   #8985
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I'm looking for a LED bulb to light my Scrubber, its a 6 x 6 screen, I was looking at the one below, Will this work or can you point me to an alternative one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CH75SGY...UBQ4FP7C&psc=1


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Old 10/10/2016, 05:16 AM   #8986
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saltwatercoral2 View Post
I'm looking for a LED bulb to light my Scrubber, its a 6 x 6 screen, I was looking at the one below, Will this work or can you point me to an alternative one?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CH75SGY...UBQ4FP7C&psc=1
I use these...

Led Grow light


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Old 10/10/2016, 12:52 PM   #8987
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Either is good, one on each side


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Old 10/10/2016, 01:36 PM   #8988
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Today is my 6 year anniversary of my first algae scrubber installation on 10/10/10




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Old 10/10/2016, 01:55 PM   #8989
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Quote:
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Today is my 6 year anniversary of my first algae scrubber installation on 10/10/10




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Old 10/10/2016, 06:33 PM   #8990
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Originally Posted by Wally.B View Post
Yes it was a brand new bucket.

No, I didn't use all of it up. Still have about 1/4 left. ( I tested a small batch, and yes MAG is low on this stuff 1175, thus the explanation for my MAG drops and need to supplement more than usual). Bucket does say Pottasium=350, so that is low too, also got a Salifert K kit (always wanted one) so will test later.).

Yes, I always mix my water for several hours, or overnight.

I got my new bucket of Tropic Marine Pro. Mixing a large Garbage can's worth. Later tonight. ill do a WC change on my LPS tank first, to see if I see a Trumpet Coral coral perk up. Then I'll do a similar WC on the SPS tank.

This topic probably doesn't belong on this thread anymore, however I'll post till I have a conclusive conclusion. If that is ok.
So I thought I'd post my conclusion on this posting/thread.

- Hermit crab has died From Copper Poisoning (in just a couple of days).
- Finally after longer soaking of Mirror, Copper shows up on TEST KIT.
- And I figured out why I got confused with the Wrong Salt Purchase (I bought Sea salt thinking I bought Reef Salt). Somehow the labeling is wrong. I've contacted Manufacturer for explanation.
----> And I did do a 20% water change on my other LPS tank (with the Tropic Marine Pro Salt), and Ka-Boom the corals perked up happier next day.



So I did a double-whammy on my SPS tank.


This issue was NOTHING TO DO with Basic Algae Scrubber Nutrient Reduction.



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Old 10/10/2016, 11:24 PM   #8991
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Last note. Knowing the Mirror was source of Copper, I removed it from the scrubber. Pretty easy, I only did a light layer of silicone just in case it needed removal.

This Photo shows (with a bright light behind mirror) how it corroded around the exposed edges, releasing the copper coating.



Should have the cleaned up scrubber, up and running soon

Will be doing some tank/sump cleanup/sweeping for any settled Copper, and running Seachem CupriSorb for a while to clean up tank.


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Old 10/11/2016, 01:02 AM   #8992
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This may seem like an obvious question, but how to you clean the screen on an ATS? I've had mine running for couple months or so, and get a good quarter inch mat of the green stuff on either side of the screen every week. I've been scraping the screen nearly bare weekly with an old gift card, but I've read you're not supposed to remove the algae all the way down to the screen.

Also, anyone figured out a good way to clean the slot without removing the screen?


I use an old credit card to scrape the algae off


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Old 10/11/2016, 04:56 AM   #8993
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wally.B View Post


This issue was NOTHING TO DO with Basic Algae Scrubber Nutrient Reduction.
Glad you figured it out.

Mirrors are not that good for reflectors anyway because light has to pass through glass two times. Polished aluminum is better.

It's my understanding that your algae filter will also help remove the copper.


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Old 10/11/2016, 07:22 AM   #8994
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if copper levels are low enough, algae will adsorb copper. But if it's too high, the copper will kill it off. I'm not exactly sure how that works, seems like what kills you should just kill you but that's why I didn't major in chemical engineering. That and 10 hour 1 credit labs.

I think flexible mylar is safe underwater. Maybe. Not 100% sure on that....but I seem to recall that


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Old 10/11/2016, 09:06 AM   #8995
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Oxygen can kill us too at high enough levels.

Copper is in many of the foods and algae we feed and is in seawater.


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Old 10/11/2016, 09:18 AM   #8996
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Touche


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Old 10/11/2016, 11:12 AM   #8997
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Paracelsus it is the Dosis that makes the poison.

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Old 10/11/2016, 12:20 PM   #8998
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Copper levels should be low (hoping).
I can see indications of coral recovery. What was slow tissue necrosis and no PE, is now (recovery indicators) showing green glow on corals during actnic light time, and PE is back. (In just a couple of days)

However I do need to be 100% clean for the future in a SPS only sensitive tank.

Plan is this. (after reading up):

- Running small amounts of carbon in sump good flow spot (changing often)
- Put back GFO in a Phosban Reactor (GFO does remove Copper too)
- More snails/hermits are gradually dying (so watching to clean up dead critters, or idle shells)
- Contaminated Scrubber will be (scrubbed clean ) to ensure no settled copper and then bring back Algae Scrubber online. (will help reduce waste from any missed dead CUC).

- Understand there are two kinds of copper "In-Organic(Toxic)" and "Organic(non-Toxic). Assuming Algae Scrubber will remove only the Organic (guessing).
- ALso understand that copper is a heavy metal and will settle on bottom (rocks, substrate). So a surface sweep is a good idea.

Extra Steps:
- May do the extreme and remove (easy to do with only small frags attached) all Live rock and rinse in WC waste water, and put back
- May add CurpriSorb which is a more Narrow Band Copper Specific remover (better than all above). Plus will change color (to Orange, if copper present)
- Since new sump (will drain sump during next WC) and scrub bottom clean.
- No Mirror (of any kind) will go into Single sided [In-Sump-Return/Upflow/Algae Scrubber]. After observing it running (even with mirror), it was doing very well with multiple/ported screens. May only do a backside replacement with a WHITE PANEL OF ACRYLIC since inside scrubber is all Acrylic black.

I know this thread is another topic, but if anyone has any more info, or a good thread/article they can point me to (on copper contamination cleanup) please Post me a personal message (greatly appreciated)



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Old 10/11/2016, 01:56 PM   #8999
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For anyone looking to get an ATS theres a turbo's aquatics L2 for sale in the for sale section.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/sh....php?t=2604019


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You can check out my parameters at reeftronics dot net website and look for my username.

Current Tank Info: 180g mixed reef w/ a beananimal overflow to a dolomite RRUGF. | 20g long G. Smithii Mantis Tank
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Old 10/11/2016, 02:23 PM   #9000
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Algae absorbs free (non-complexed) copper, making it unavailable to other organisms.


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