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Old 10/12/2008, 02:08 PM   #251
Aquarist007
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Quote:
Originally posted by AbraxasFrog
Hello all,

If you are setting up a new tank for the first time, do the DT and refugium cycle in the same way and time? That is, say, if you are hitting your bacteria bloom or algae attack in the DT, will the refugium be similarly affected? Does the cycling affect the entire water column? I imagine it would, but was wondering what personal experience says.

For specific reference, I am setting up a "display" refugium slightly higher than the DT, where water is pumped to the refugium and gravity drains back to the DT.

Alas, I am a poor anal-retentive reefer wannabe and am curious about the cycling process in those other areas besides the DT.
excellent question:
One needs to look at every tank ect that is joined together in their system as one continuous water coloumn.
The live rock does not have to be in the display tank to operate on the system as a whole, you can add water, salt water, chemicals ect from your sump for the whole system ect ect.

In the light of this concept, yes to your question.

Eventually that will be a good thing in that algae blooms will be minimized in your display tank once macro algae ect has established itself in the refugium and is removing the nutrients from the system that nuisance algae needs to grow.


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Old 10/12/2008, 05:17 PM   #252
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Quote:
Originally posted by capn_hylinur


In the light of this concept, yes to your question.

Eventually that will be a good thing in that algae blooms will be minimized in your display tank once macro algae ect has established itself in the refugium and is removing the nutrients from the system that nuisance algae needs to grow.
Oh spiffy! It seemed to make sense but my momma always said I was lacking in common sense.

Hats off to you capn hylinur. Thanks for the help.

Zac


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Old 10/12/2008, 05:35 PM   #253
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I don't know squat about mm sand size but I will say.
That I take zinc every day.
Thanks waterkeeper for reminding me

Zinc is an essential nutrient Paul.


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Old 10/12/2008, 08:24 PM   #254
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It's somewht less then thismmmm .


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Last edited by WaterKeeper; 10/12/2008 at 08:30 PM.
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Old 10/12/2008, 10:21 PM   #255
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Originally posted by WaterKeeper
Hi Cymig

To Reef Central

You should also try to find a vid of Paul B's tank. The only tank where you cure junk cars.
Here you go:

http://www.reefcentral.com/wp/?p=282


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Old 10/13/2008, 04:45 AM   #256
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Water, thanks, my gravel size is more like this --->0<---


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Old 10/14/2008, 11:40 AM   #257
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Ah, about the same size as my brain, and that's not coral.


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Old 10/14/2008, 03:13 PM   #258
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Hey all,

So when researching, I try to limit myself to one or two topics a day. Today I was looking at canister filters since WaterKeeper spoke very highly of them: for polishing water for a new tank setup, or to run additional media.

So, I realized that a HOB canister filter is cheap, but only processes small volumes - you can get the bigger ones but now were talking $$$. Since the canister filter isn't the main filtration, and may only be used to polish water or help abate the initial sandstorm, is it ok to go with a smaller model? It may not be quick but can still help right?

Thanks,

Zac


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Old 10/14/2008, 06:06 PM   #259
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Heck, I have a 400 gph canister and it only cost $49. You must be looking a Eheims, Zac.


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Old 10/14/2008, 06:17 PM   #260
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Quote:
Originally posted by WaterKeeper
Ah, about the same size as my brain, and that's not coral.
don't the two become the same, the longer you stay in this hobby--at least that is what my wife tells me


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Old 10/14/2008, 06:21 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally posted by AbraxasFrog
Hey all,

So when researching, I try to limit myself to one or two topics a day. Today I was looking at canister filters since WaterKeeper spoke very highly of them: for polishing water for a new tank setup, or to run additional media.

So, I realized that a HOB canister filter is cheap, but only processes small volumes - you can get the bigger ones but now were talking $$$. Since the canister filter isn't the main filtration, and may only be used to polish water or help abate the initial sandstorm, is it ok to go with a smaller model? It may not be quick but can still help right?

Thanks,

Zac
consider a phosban reactor by "two little fishes" and run carbon in it. The reactors themselves are about 35 dollars.
Running carbon as a fluidized media(like in the canister filters) is a very effective use of the whole media and produces noticable results overnight.
IMO it is a waste to buy a canister filter remove all the media and then run carbon in it--unless you have an old one hanging around

Here is some more info on them:
http://www.reefcentral.com/wp/?p=268


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Old 10/14/2008, 09:42 PM   #262
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Quote:
Originally posted by capn_hylinur
consider a phosban reactor by "two little fishes" and run carbon in it. The reactors themselves are about 35 dollars.
Running carbon as a fluidized media(like in the canister filters) is a very effective use of the whole media and produces noticable results overnight.
Capn, if you were nearby I would bring an apple for the teacher. I actually have been working my way through your blogs as well "don't just buy one - get two" and have added the TLF phosban to my wish list.

Were you in the category of "run when needed" or do you run carbon/phosban 24/7? You have some very impressive refugiums and are showing good macro growth. By the way, how's the mangrove lately?

Zac


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Old 10/14/2008, 09:54 PM   #263
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Quote:
Originally posted by AbraxasFrog
Capn, if you were nearby I would bring an apple for the teacher. I actually have been working my way through your blogs as well "don't just buy one - get two" and have added the TLF phosban to my wish list.

Were you in the category of "run when needed" or do you run carbon/phosban 24/7? You have some very impressive refugiums and are showing good macro growth. By the way, how's the mangrove lately?

Zac
thanks Zac but apples give me diaharia

I run carbon 24/7 and change it out every second week. Carbon can adsorb alot more organics then just the group that causes the yellowing in the water so its an asset to have it running all the time IMO
As far as phosban--with the two functional refugiums(the deep sand bed and macro aglae) I stopped running the phosban but in a system where you are getting nuisance alagae then it is good to run and change it out every 2-3 months.
However in the case of all unwanted algae you need to get at the source of the nutrients causing the algae growth, curb it and then running the phosban reactor will be more effecient.

BTW
Since I stopped running the phosban the macro algae(chaeto) is doing better.


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Old 10/15/2008, 04:49 AM   #264
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Heck, I have a 400 gph canister and it only cost $49. You must be looking a Eheims, Zac.

Instead of running a tank, I may just put all my animals in a big canister filter and let it run around itself.


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Old 10/15/2008, 08:41 AM   #265
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Quote:
Originally posted by Paul B
Instead of running a tank, I may just put all my animals in a big canister filter and let it run around itself.
you do realize if you suggest it Paul---someone's gonna try it


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Old 10/16/2008, 01:12 AM   #266
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Hi Tom, regarding to Di water, someone told me that if I don't use the Di constantly (since I only need about 20 gallons/week), the resin will went bad and re-act differently( make the water worse). Is this true?
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Old 10/16/2008, 04:11 AM   #267
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you do realize if you suggest it Paul---someone's gonna try it
Yeah, then they may start putting bottles and cans in there too.
How wierd that would be


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Old 10/16/2008, 10:54 AM   #268
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Hi Mike

To Reef Central

That somewhat depends. If the resin sits without flow for long periods it eventually becomes coated with a bacteria film and that pretty much does it in. Your running about 20 gallons per week and that should be enough to somewhat avoid the problem. Also, standing water in the resin may leach out some absorbed materials. The solution to that is to just discard the first gallon or so of the output water before you collect it. Lab units have recirculation pumps to avoid that very problem.

By the Way-Our watchdog Debi saw those links in the sig line. Tooth whitening and digital photo site links are of a commercial nature and therefore a no, no on RC. I know Deb and you don't want to draw her ire. She will boot you back, across the pond, if you do it again.


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Old 10/16/2008, 01:23 PM   #269
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I think I may have posted these questions somewhere on RC before but a search did not bring it up (I'm getting on in years so maybe I thought I did )
Anyway here goes again.[list=1][*]When I purchase live rock that's been cured by the LFS do I have to quarantine it?[*]If yes, for how long?[*]I guess quarantining is to see if there are any "bad" hitchhikers. Do I have to watch for them day and night (I guess I could camp out in front of the tank with my flashlight and toast marshmellows and sing cumbuyaw while looking for the bad little chaps )?[/list=1]
Thanks


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Old 10/16/2008, 02:30 PM   #270
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Did you think I was going to deport you to Triad (some sort of transistor?), NC; wherever that is?
  • Not if you know from the LFS how long they had it.
  • If it was over a month it probably can go directly into the tank.
  • You are right on there. Most of the bad buggies roam at night. However, short of a vigil, just look for signs of stress or injury to the inhabitants.



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Old 10/16/2008, 09:17 PM   #271
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Quote:
Originally posted by WaterKeeper


Did you think I was going to deport you to Triad (some sort of transistor?), NC; wherever that is?
  • Not if you know from the LFS how long they had it.
  • If it was over a month it probably can go directly into the tank.
  • You are right on there. Most of the bad buggies roam at night. However, short of a vigil, just look for signs of stress or injury to the inhabitants.
I agree but with these cautions:
question the LFS if they have ever used copper based medications in their tanks before--if so you can't use that rock again.

be on the caution side regarding the viability of the bacteria on and in the rock--many LFS keep their salinity levels at 1.018 (normal being 1.026) this can cause some die off in the bacteria so some time will be needed in the display tank for cycling.

make sure it is quality reef rock like figi or tonga , Marshall, Haitian ect ect and not base rock. The quality rock is more porous and thus feels lighter when you lift it. The porous rock has deeper crevices to harbour anoxic bacteria--the bacteria that breaks down nitrates to harmless nitrogen gas and thus completes the nitrogen or ammonia cycle.

In short use the rock but add it in 3 lbs intervals a week and still monitor for ammonia spikes.


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Old 10/16/2008, 09:38 PM   #272
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If they say it is from Tonga, either they are lying or it has been in their tanks for months and is worth a lot as this rock is not imported from the wild any more.


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Old 10/17/2008, 09:58 AM   #273
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Here is a site to compare the tonga rock to:

http://www.marinecenter.com/rocks/li...ranchliverock/


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Old 10/17/2008, 05:14 PM   #274
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Thumbs up

Thanks for all of the wonderful information. Over the last couple of months I have been researching to convert my 125G freshwater planted aquarium over to a marine aquarium. I have been lurking on this board for a few weeks and have read through many of the different topics. This has been a very valuable tool and I would like to sincerely thank you for the help.

Regards,

jwar


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Old 10/17/2008, 07:18 PM   #275
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Hi jwar

To Reef Central

Glad to have you aboard and we're here to help any reefer from newbie to seasoned vet. Well, there is no helping Paul B.


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