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Old 10/29/2008, 06:50 AM   #326
WaterKeeper
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LFS=Local Fish Store

The NSW (natural sea water) is great but it sure does cost the big bucks and I've yet to find a mermaid in a bottle of it.

Most major salt mix brands are fine. They vary somewhat in composition but most will do a good job. IO (Instant Ocean) is still the most widely used I believe.


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:01 AM   #327
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Quote:
Originally posted by WaterKeeper


Not to worry saltboy, Paul B.is just reverting to his days when he made moonshine. Indeed copper condenser coils were used to make distilled water in days of yore. That latter was changed to block tin condenser and, today, quartz condensers are very common. Why? The EPA regulates the level of copper in drinking water these days and some people drink distilled. The manufactures therefore abandoned using copper equipment some time ago.

The distilled water you have is probably fine. It is purer than RO but not as pure as RO/DI. Yet, the level of purity is fine for a reef tank. If you are worried ask the LFS to check for copper in a sample of the distilled. I bet it will be absent.
and he still has some of the bottles in his tank to prove it

Saltboy:
a rough comparison
distilled water has 90 per cent of the TDS(total dissolves substances) removed

ro has 95 per cent of TDS removed

and ro/di unit has 100 per cent of TDS removed.


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:29 AM   #328
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Scotts all wet too. Good quallity distilled would be over 99% purity. Typical water quality is measured in micro-Siemens (2µS/cm=~1ppm) with RO water in the range of 5-50 µS/cm, distilled 0.5-1.0 µS/cm and RO/DI at 0.1 µS/cm or less. In some cases distilled is even lower. The standard for Type 1 labortory, reagent grade distilled is 10 megaohm which is 0.1 µS/cm. Do achieve that kind of purity the water is often triple distilled and you don't buy that a K-Mart.


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:31 AM   #329
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lol, he has the bottles in his tank, hahahaha, i have one more question but its about coralline algea, i have had my tank up and running ( its only 2.5 im starting a 5.5) for about 8 to 9 months now i had a sand bed but i had to remove it because i went onvacation thinking my dad could take care of iti told him whathe had to do and when i got back it had a bad smell to it all clean up crew where dead my little damsel was not doin good but hes better now but anyways ihave coralline algea, why is this


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:34 AM   #330
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i got my distilled at CVS hahaha for free my mom works at the warehouse so she gets me a few gallons ever month or when i ask


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:37 AM   #331
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I think Waterkeeper said the same thing as me but my computer, is old and made out of wood so it can't type all those little squiggly lines. I never got up to that in high school.

Quote:
Good quallity distilled would be over 99% purity. Typical water quality is measured in micro-Siemens (2µS/cm=~1ppm) with RO water in the range of 5-50 µS/cm, distilled 0.5-1.0 µS/cm and RO/DI at 0.1 µS/cm



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Old 10/29/2008, 08:41 AM   #332
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i have new computer have you seen the new hp touch screen, just got it the other day at best buy, i didnt think they where out yet so i said mom plz, hahaha and she said its your xmas gift and nothing else and i said o tay, lol but i have AOL still and this computer needs somthing much faster


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:56 AM   #333
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well im building afilter for my setup a HOB sump haha but got to go take it easy ill post pics later tonight onanew thread, peace for now and thx for the help


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Old 10/29/2008, 09:19 AM   #334
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Quote:
Originally posted by WaterKeeper
Scotts all wet too. Good quallity distilled would be over 99% purity. Typical water quality is measured in micro-Siemens (2µS/cm=~1ppm) with RO water in the range of 5-50 µS/cm, distilled 0.5-1.0 µS/cm and RO/DI at 0.1 µS/cm or less. In some cases distilled is even lower. The standard for Type 1 labortory, reagent grade distilled is 10 megaohm which is 0.1 µS/cm. Do achieve that kind of purity the water is often triple distilled and you don't buy that a K-Mart.

No arguement about being all wet too-----at least I have company on RC

but-----
I did say "rough comparison


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Old 10/29/2008, 09:46 AM   #335
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And I can always call in the Desert Rat to double team people on water questions.


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Old 10/29/2008, 12:17 PM   #336
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Quote:
Originally posted by WaterKeeper
And I can always call in the Desert Rat to double team people on water questions.
agreed---no contest there

although I could call up 100 or so of us AW's to post and make you guys go insane

imagine the frustration--running out of red ink


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:57 PM   #337
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so im back made the filter ill try an post athread with some pics later tonight if i dont fall asleep, so tired


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Old 10/29/2008, 08:58 PM   #338
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Sleep tight. ???


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"Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation"

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Old 10/29/2008, 09:07 PM   #339
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lol if i can sleep i want to but i want to post a pic of my filter but i dont feal like getting on photobucket it always freezes when i get on that site


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Old 10/29/2008, 09:09 PM   #340
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waterkeeper what kind of tanks do you have and what size


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Old 10/30/2008, 07:00 AM   #341
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Quote:
Originally posted by WaterKeeper
For those of you that hate it when you can't read an unformated post send the hate mail to Paul.

Don't worry Paul I fixed it.

I don't place ich in my tank just for fun. I'm testing my new miracle cure that involves dosing with boiled turnip juice.

Alan,

I know what you are driving at but fish can also carry the parasite's cysts in their intestine and it enters the tank via the fish's feces. That's why the full length Q-tank period is a good idea.
WaterKeeper
Sorry to be pedantic about this but I'm trying to understand what goes on in a QT tank. What I was getting at in my OP was that the parasite requires a host fish to live, so as long as there is a fish in the QT how do we know that the parasite has died. Does that make sense?
Okay - assuming the newly acquired fish has ich. We put it in a QT tank for 4 weeks. During that time the parasite drops of the fish and remains dormant on the bottom of the tank. After its dormant time it reappears and attaches itself to the fish again (sorry I'm not using all of the biological states of the parasite).
My basic question was - how do we know it's gone after 4 weeks or 4 months for that matter because all the time it has a host fish to support its life cycle?


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Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.
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Old 10/30/2008, 08:18 AM   #342
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That's a valid question. Actually, we don't know for sure that the fish is not carrying ich. However, during that four week quarantine we look for signs of infection. White spots, mucus films, reddening of the gills, agitated swim patterns, constant rubbing, labored breathing and loss of appetite. These are all signs that indicate a disease may be present and if we observe them we move the fish to a hospital tank and medicate it.

It is by no means foolproof but it is far better than placing the fish into the display tank's community upon its arrival. In over 95% of the cases we will see signs of illness in the QT and can stop it before it infects the general population.


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Old 10/30/2008, 08:48 AM   #343
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WaterKeeper
Okay I misunderstood the QT tank purpose. I wrongly assumed that by QTing for 4 weeks we were assured that the fish did not have ich or any other disease. I now see that the QT tank is for observation to determine the need for medication (or other remedies) in case of a problem. Thanks for the clarification. It should have been obvious


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"Never in the field of human conflict was so much owed by so many to so few. "
Sir Winston Churchill praising those young RAF pilots.
August 20th 1940
Click on my name for drop down list and select "Visit EnglishRebels Home Page" for my build thread.

Current Tank Info: 60x30x24 200G AO custom glass tank, basement equipment room, 30G and 55G Fuges, LifeReef sump & 30" skimmer.

Last edited by EnglishRebel; 10/30/2008 at 08:56 AM.
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Old 10/30/2008, 09:15 AM   #344
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Hello all,

My name is Lonnie and this will be my first venture into saltwater. I've had small freshwater fishtanks for the kids until a bad batch of neon tetras wiped it out. After a week or so of deciding what to do I bought a 55g tank and stand for myself. Going to get theirs up and running again. Now I'm doing a lot of reading so I don't have a bunch of dead fish. I've spent the last three weeks or so reading all the posts for newbies. Man Waterkeeper (and others) has a lot of info thought my head was going to explode.

After reading all 14 pages of this post I decided to register and post myself. I have found a replacement for southdown sand and bought some of that (at least I think it will work). After reading this post I see I can get a RO/DI for a deal. I'm going to build my own sumptank using Melev's directions. I plan on using a Mag 7 as my pump and a Mag 5 for the closed loop system. I'm leaning towards a Aquac protien skimmer.

I'd like to start out with a DSB and LR with a Clown, Tang and shrimp. Gonna have a good cleanup crew, just the usual snails and such. Still need to figure out lighting.

Any thoughts or ideas are always welcome. Also if anyone is close by that would be great as I'm sure I'm going to need help at some point.

Lonnie


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Old 10/30/2008, 09:38 AM   #345
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Bravo Lonnie

To Reef Central

That is the type of first post that is dear to Waterkeeper's heart. You have all the bases covered after your arduous research (I think my old, New Tank Thread tops in at over 65 printed pages). At this point I have no addition comments. Your game plan is sound so all I can say is good luck in this fascinating hobby. Keep us updated on how it goes and feel free to ask if you have any problems or questions.




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"Leading the information hungry reefer down the road to starvation"

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Old 10/30/2008, 09:42 AM   #346
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Quote:
Originally posted by EnglishRebel
WaterKeeper
Okay I misunderstood the QT tank purpose. I wrongly assumed that by QTing for 4 weeks we were assured that the fish did not have ich or any other disease. I now see that the QT tank is for observation to determine the need for medication (or other remedies) in case of a problem. Thanks for the clarification. It should have been obvious
4 weeks being the minimum--I like 6 weeks to be more sure

As you have probably read, being definitive for times for curing or a tank being ich free is very hard.
The norm of posts I have read or being proactive in say 6 weeks for a fishless tank to be rid of ich. So I always qt for 6 weeks.

One of respected marine biologists on here --states 11 weeks--but Waterkeeper has already said that depends on colder temps in the display tank.

BTW
another important function of a qt tank is to help get difficult feeders to eat--you can experiment with different types of food and provide nervous less agressive fish with a less stressful environment.


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Current Tank Info: 150gal long mixed reef, 90gal sump, 60 gal refugium with 200 lbs live rock
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Old 10/30/2008, 09:47 AM   #347
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Thanks for catching that Scott. I missed Alan's reply as I was so amazed with Lonnies post.


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Old 10/30/2008, 10:57 AM   #348
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Welcome Lonnie.


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Old 10/30/2008, 12:43 PM   #349
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Noob here: I have 2 questions. 1st whats the purpose of CO2 in a reef tank? 2nd whats a good skimmer for a 75gal. reef?..Thanx...Johnnie ><)))9>


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Old 10/30/2008, 01:19 PM   #350
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CO2 is a product of respiration. You, or your fish, exhale CO2 with every breath. During the day the sun allows algae to use CO2 as food. That is, through photosynthesis they use the carbon to form simple sugars. At night they use the sugar as fuel and to build new tissue. In doing so they also release CO2 back inot the water. This is what causes a diurnal pH shift in the aquarium.

CO2 is also used for calcium reactors. It forms acidic carbonic acid in water and that can dissolve limestone. By bubbling a stream of CO2 through a column packed with limestone some dissolves. This provides both calcium and alkalinity for the tank.

As an aquarist we need to control the amount of CO2 in our tanks. Too much lowers pH and reduces the water's oxygen content. Good gas exchange is therefore a must. Aeration will strip CO2 from the tank and help keep it under control.

Hope that helps.


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