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Old 01/11/2008, 07:24 AM   #26
rob.holbrook
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Well if you want to let me borrow that or I can bring some water by, I was going to start to mix up 10 gallons of water for a change.

I am also really considering buying a bfs ro/di system

I am prolly going to take a sample to phisys tongiht and see if they can test it for me .....

So far everyone says

1. Water Change 20% how often?
2. Replacing filters or buying new RO System
3 Less feeding (I only feed every other day)
4. Less light or change bulbs


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Old 01/11/2008, 09:22 AM   #27
Genetics
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Quote:
Originally posted by rob.holbrook

So far everyone says

1. Water Change 20% how often?
2. Replacing filters or buying new RO System
3 Less feeding (I only feed every other day)
4. Less light or change bulbs
I would think about holding off on a water change until you figure out if your RO is putting out 65ppm. If that's real changing water may actually increase the green algae growth. If you switch to Rowa don't put too much in as it will drop your dKH quickly upfront. Maybe think of picking up water at walmart. I think the RO water you can get there has less than 10ppm. I would not change your lighting schedule unless your tank is getting too hot during the photoperiod. It sounds like you may already be stressing some animals in your tank and changing the period will not help.

Out of curiosity what is the pH of your tank during the day and before the lights turn on?


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Old 01/11/2008, 11:54 AM   #28
rob.holbrook
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I took my water from my RO system to culligan and had it checked, I was told it was in fact putting out 65 ppm on the TDS meter.

What about changing the bulbs?

I will check the ph tonight after the lights go out


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Old 01/11/2008, 12:33 PM   #29
MarineFishGuy
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I have a handheld TDS meter too.
If you want to stop by we can test your phosphates and double-check your TDS.

I agree, I would not use water from your RO unit until you can get the TDS down.

If you have 2 5 gallon buckets (with lids) I have some RO/DI water too.

I would not worry about the bulbs right now. They are more of a catalyst, but not necessarily the root cause.
The nutrients should be the first thing you try to attack, if you remove those, the lights will not make a difference since the food source is gone.

I would also consider running Carbon, Reef Systems had some large tubs of ESV for $30 when I was there last weekend.

Ken
PS it is Girls night out tonight, so I will likely be doing tank maintenance /enjoyment.


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Old 01/11/2008, 12:37 PM   #30
rob.holbrook
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it appears my LT Aneome has died... it is shrunken up to nothing..... and crabs were eating at it....


I would be willing to pay if someone from cora that knows something or how to help fix this tank before it crashes.....

I just dont want to loose everything.....

anyone up for it?


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Old 01/11/2008, 01:08 PM   #31
Genetics
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How much water do you need for 10-20% water change? I'd be happy to provide the water and the salt if you give me an amount that's not too terribly high. Also, if you bring some water along I will look at the salinity using a refractometer.

I would hold off on the bulbs. Again, light promotes photosynthesis so the algae growth is just stating something else is off in the tank.


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Old 01/11/2008, 01:53 PM   #32
rob.holbrook
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Genetics - When could you do all of this?


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Old 01/11/2008, 02:14 PM   #33
CleveYank
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wow...a picture tells a thousand words....that tank's been slimed...that is not even close to the small amount I get on my glass. Yikes.

Are you over feeding??? LOL...Just bustin chops Rob.
Yeah get the TDS handled.


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