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Old 01/13/2008, 05:58 PM   #1
casingbill
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gurgle help??

I just filled my 90 AGA RR for a test run, checking pump and plumbing...etc. The gurgling seems pretty excessive to me. The drain splits via a wye. Sump on one side, fuge on the other. There are ball valves on both runs. I've been adjusting them and playing with the standpipe for way too long. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Bill

PS...the AGA RR has a durso style standpipe with holes drilled at the top.


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Old 01/14/2008, 07:18 AM   #2
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bump


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Old 01/14/2008, 07:41 AM   #3
NanoReefWanabe
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have you tried a ball valve on the return line above the ump? try to throttle it back a bit...

more information is needed to help...

size of drains?
size of durso?
pump in sump? size of pump in GPH? ~ head loss?


there are a couple active threads on this very issue right now...


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Old 01/14/2008, 07:49 AM   #4
casingbill
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No ball valve on return...I assumed it best not to try and slow the pump down.....the pump is an OR3500...about 3 ft.. head loss

the drain is either 1" or 1 1/4" (can't remember right now) and the return is 3/4"

its not the durso making the noise, its the gulps of air being released


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Old 01/14/2008, 09:39 AM   #5
Ratkiller
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Most likely it is the durso. The water going down the from the durso traps air pockets. When they are released it creates a gurgle noise. I ran into the same problem I went with this style durso. It works like a charm. No gurgling at all. Plus it is adjustable to match the flow.
http://s202.photobucket.com/albums/a...wwithDurso.jpg


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Old 01/14/2008, 10:03 AM   #6
Arthur1
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The AGA should come with the adjustable pipestand. I know how you feel about the gurgling noise, I've dealt with this all too many times. There are plenty of ways to go about this. One is its always good to have a union and ball valve wherever you can (or a true union ball valve). For reasons such as slowing things down, disconnecting for a repair or maint., etc. In your situation trying to slow the pump down a bit would be my first attempt at this and then adjusting the pipe as well. Rat is def. right about the airpockets. If you feel like you have to throttle the pump too far back but you're still getting adequate water flow you can always T off of the return tho releave the pressure back into the sump and or with the T run to another piece of equipment such as a PO4 reactor.


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Old 01/14/2008, 05:30 PM   #7
casingbill
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ok...thx all for the help...I finally got it to go away...it just took more tweaking with the ball valves than I thought it would


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Old 01/14/2008, 07:20 PM   #8
kgross
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Using valves on the drain is a bad bad idea. Splitting the drain and one valve is ok, but with 2 you are asking for your tank to overflow. You are using the valves to back water up in your drain line to keep it from burping. So if anything partialy plugs up either valve the water level will build up even higher, when it gets to the tank level the tank will overflow.

Kim


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Old 01/14/2008, 07:27 PM   #9
casingbill
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Quote:
Originally posted by kgross
Using valves on the drain is a bad bad idea. Splitting the drain and one valve is ok, but with 2 you are asking for your tank to overflow. You are using the valves to back water up in your drain line to keep it from burping. So if anything partialy plugs up either valve the water level will build up even higher, when it gets to the tank level the tank will overflow.

Kim
good thought...thx


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